Yard & Garden Tip of the Day

(7/31/02)
Spuds, In Flower Arrangements?
If you come up short of floral foam or oasis when arranging flowers, you need look no further than your pantry. Yes, a potato can fulfill your needs. Just soak the potato in water for an hour and cut it to fit the bottom of your container. Flowers with sturdy stems should be cut on an angle to make a penetrating point. A skewer is good for poking small holes to insert weak stems. The potato's water-holding capacity perfectly suits its role as a natural oasis.
(7/30/02)
Don't Forget To Water Your Container Gardens
August can be relied upon to be our hottest and driest month of the year. If you've gone a little nutty with container gardens this year as I have, you are probably making a mental note to tone it down come 2002. Why, because pots in full sun (unless humongous) need to be watered every day, and smaller ones several times a day. Plants with their roots baking in a clay oven will not survive too many days unwatered.
To conserve moisture, you may want to move pots around so that they benefit from some afternoon shade. A shady spot from 12:00 PM to 4:00 PM will help. I always mulch my containers with either spaghnum moss, pea gravel, decorative stones, or fine pine bark mulch so the soil surface doesn't harden and crack.
At this time of the year, when pots are watered daily, plants can become starved for nutrients. A mild (8-8-8) water-soluble fertilizer should be used at least twice a month. Also, deadhead spent flowers in your potted plants and remove straggly or ratty looking foliage.
(7/28/02)
Fall Vegetable Crops Can Be Planted Now
If you are planning a fall vegetable garden, thoroughly remove old crop debris and weeds. If the soil has been dry, water it deeply and allow it to dry enough so that it's not muddy when you are ready to plant. 5-10-10 fertilizer can be worked into the soil at a rate of 2-3 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area.
Use the following guidelines for determining when to plant what vegetable. Pick early maturing varieties for late season planting.
Mid July through beginning of August: Bush green beans, carrots, sweet corn, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower.
Beginning to mid-August: Beets, kale, collard greens, beet greens, endive, bibb lettuce, turnips, kohlrabi, cabbage (including Chinese cabbage), and broccoli.
Beginning of September: Mustard greens, spinach, turnip greens, and leaf lettuce.
Mid September through beginning of October: Radishes.
(7/27/02)
A Simple Test For White Grubs
Do a couple of things to test your turf for high populations of grubs. First, if the brown spots appear in June or even early July, it's usually too early in the grub life cycle for major damage to occur. (Cool season grasses ? tall fescue and bluegrass - get vulnerable to damage when it's really hot and dry.) If you do suspect a grub problem, cut one square foot of sod and lift it up, revealing the soil and any insects beneath. Damaging numbers of grubs would be 12 or more. You can always test the turf by pulling at the damaged area. If the sod lifts easily up, you may very likely have a grub problem.
(7/26/02)
Dead Spots Might Not Mean White Grubs
Many homeowners start to panic when they see patches of dying grass in their lawns. Many people assume that the damage is due to grubs that are ravenously feeding on the roots of their grasses. Well, this isn't always the case. In fact, more often than not these summer brown patches are caused by other factors, such as the way you've managed your turf (watering, weeding, dog urination, etc.), and not the chubby little grubs. So, how do you know?
(7/25/02)
Don't Prune Or Fertilize Woody Plants After August
As trees and shrubs head into fall, they begin a hardening off process that is necessary for their protection during the winter months. Deciduous plants begin to shed leaves, stems become more woody, and the seasonal growth on evergreens develops a protective coating in an effort to conserve moisture and resist cold temperatures. When plants are pruned during the growing season, new growth is stimulated just below the pruning cuts at leaf nodes. New growth initiated later in the season doesn't have a chance to harden off properly, and is vulnerable to frost damage.
Fertilizer with a moderate to high nitrogen content can also stimulate an abundance of new growth that is too succulent to withstand the cold. When this new growth is damaged, it opens the plant to other, more serious injury and dieback, which you don't want. Depending upon your climate, stop cutting and fertilizing in early fall - usually at least six to eight weeks before your first frost date. You can get local frost date info from your Cooperative Extension Service.
(7/24/02)
Placing A Bench Or Chair In The Garden
Benches or seats placed in a garden setting can play several roles. They provide a place to sit, but also can be considered garden sculpture. Benches sited properly, place the visitor or viewer in a position to stop, look, listen, or smell something you want them to.
With this in mind, there are several things to consider when preparing to place seating in your garden. First, and foremost is, what is the bench's main function? If you desire a place to curl up with a book, comfort is key. A fancy wrought-iron deal (unless well cushioned) is probably not for you. Another important consideration; is the chair or bench suitable to the style of your home and garden? A rustic bent willow chair will most certainly look out of place in an urban setting.
The third consideration is the actual placement of your bench. Do you have a particularly wonderful view to highlight? Perhaps a hidden pool or fountain, or a most fragrant rose would be reason to pause someplace and reflect. If your seat is a one-of-a-kind piece of art, or particularly well done, very decorative, placement is key. You certainly want to have a good view of it from a window, or patio, etc.
A garden isn't really complete without some kind of waystation where you or visiting friends can plunk yourselves down and enjoy a bit of the outdoor magic that's been created.
(7/23/02)
Growing Lavender
Who can resist the scent of lavender, or the sight of silvery foliage topped by purple flower spikes? Lavender certainly is a desirable plant to grow, but its Mediterranean roots hint at why it may be tricky to cultivate in our area.
Lavender grows best in fast-draining, alkaline soil, and in full sun. The addition of organic compost will promote soil aeration, and prevent the root rot that will do a lavender plant in, in straight order. Lavender is also happy to be grown in well draining raised beds. Good air circulation is a must to deter fungal diseases such as powdery mildew that these plants are prone to.
Regular fertilization is not necessary for lavender. Slow release fertilizers can be used at the time of planting, and then once a year as new growth begins each spring. Many gardeners are confused about how to prune lavender plants, as they have a tendency to develop woody lower stems. Pruning a lavender back to a point where it has no foliage will most likely kill the plant. Instead, in spring prune foliage back a third to encourage new growth. When new foliage has grown in, cut that back by one third to stimulate new growth at the base of the plant. Once this basal growth appears, cut back older, woody stems to just above the new growth.
To propagate lavender, take 2-4 inch semi-ripe stem cuttings in summer. (Semi-ripe stems are still pliable, but will snap when bent.) Remove the leaves from the bottom inch or two and dip the end into rooting hormone. Insert new cuttings into a damp, soil less mix and keep them in a well-ventilated area. Cuttings should develop roots in several weeks, and can be potted up into larger containers. Containerized lavender can be planted into the garden in fall.
Harvest lavender flowers in mid-morning, following several days of dry weather. This is when the highest concentration of oil is present in the stems. If you cut flowers when only a few florets have opened on the flower heads they will keep their color and stay intact. Dry them out of the sun in a breezy area for best results.
(7/20/02)
Edible Flowers Edible flowers add a decorative touch and interesting flavors to any meal. Historically, flowers have been used for centuries in baked goods, liqueurs, and used fresh at the table. Flowers can be crystallized for decoration, ground into sugar for flavoring, preserved in jams and jellies, used in sauces, and added to cool drinks for flavor and garnish. Growing your own is the best way to insure that they are pesticide-free, and picked at the proper time for maximum flavor.
Pick flowers at mid-morning on a warm, dry day. Pick them at their peak for best flavor, and not when they are faded and wilting. Rinse them in a pan of cool water to flush out any critters nestled within. Pat them dry and store them on a tray, lined with a damp cloth, and wrapped in cellophane. Refrigerate flowers to keep them fresh, for about one week.
Some of my favorite edible flowers include:
Anise hyssop- purple blossoms with a strong licorice scent, and a flavor similar to root-beer.
Borage (Anchusa)- large blue flowers with a cucumber flavor; great in a salad.
Calendula- shades of yellow and orange with a tangy, peppery taste.
Chive blossom- pale pink/lavender with a mild onion flavor.
Daylillies- come in red/orange/yellow and pastels, with a sweet, nutty flavor. Yumm
Dianthus- pink ones have a spicy, clove scent and taste.
Lavender- flowers have a lemony taste-great in desserts and lemonade.
Lovage- yellow and white flowers with a celery flavor.
Nasturtiums- rainbow of colors and are tangy, like watercress.
Roses- lighter colors have more delicate flavor.
Squash- yellow blossoms have the flavor of raw squash. They are stuffed, sauteed, and fried.
Violets- Viola odorata, or sweet violet is the best. Used candied, and in desserts and salads.
(7/19/02)
Tomato Problems
Many of the things that go wrong with tomato plants, are not disease or insect related. They are primarily due to the plant's growing environment. Problems, such as blossom-drop, cracks in the fruit, blossom-end rot, sunscald, catfacing, and hard spots, occur because of specific cultural, and environmental conditions.
Blossom drop- Many varieties of tomato will not set fruit unless temperatures are between 55?F and 75?F for at least part of the night. Early season tomato cultivars will set some fruit at lower night temperatures, but then have problems as summer progresses, and temperatures soar. If blossoms develop and plants don't set fruit, the blossoms will drop off. Chemicals sprays that supposedly prevent blossom drop can help somewhat, but sprayed fruits often become malformed and seedless.
Fruit cracks- Tomatoes that are growing rapidly can often crack in concentric rings around the stem, especially during hot, dry weather following a rainy period. Mulch tomato plants, and water regularly to prevent rapid fluctuations in soil moisture. Certain tomato varieties are more prone to cracking than others. If your local weather is conducive to fruits cracks, seek out crack-resistant cultivars.
Blossom-end rot- This is a common problem that begins as a leathery patch on the blossom-end of the tomato. Usually the first fruits to ripen are plagued by this rot. It develops when environmental conditions prevent the proper usage of calcium in the tomato plant. When plants are under stress (hot, dry winds and low soil moisture) calcium moves from the roots to the leaves with the movement of water, bypassing the fruits. The lack of calcium in the tomatoes causes tissue to breakdown at the blossom-end. Excessive nitrogen causing very rapid plant growth can also contribute to the condition.
To prevent blossom-end rot from ruining your tomatoes, irrigate and mulch your plants to maintain consistent and adequate soil moisture. Research has shown that applying additional calcium to the soil or spraying a water-soluble calcium solution on the leaves does not remedy the situation. BER is not caused by a shortage of calcium, only the plant's improper use of it, due to stress.
Sunscald- Sunscald can develop as a yellow or whitish patch on the sunward (south-facing) side of a tomato. Affected patches blister, and form a shrunken, grayish-white spot with a papery surface.
Most commonly, sunscald affects small, immature fruits that are suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. This can happen because of insect defoliation (many caterpillars and beetles feed on tomato foliage), diseases that cause leaves to drop, or unsupported, sprawling plants. When fruits are no longer shaded by the leaves, sunscald can occur.
Caging tomato plants provides better foliage cover for the fruits. Controlling foliar diseases, and insects such as the tomato hornworm will help to preserve leaf cover, and keep tomato fruits nicely shaded.
Catfacing- Sometimes tomatoes develop with surface deformations reminiscent of cat-faces or zippers. This scarring of the tomato skin is caused when fruit set happens during cool, cloudy weather. Blossoms stick to developing fruits, causing puckering and scarring. Since this disorder is dependent upon the weather, usually only a few tomatoes are affected in any given growing season. (Unless of course, cloudy-cool summer weather is the rule for your area.) Large-fruited varieties seem to be much more susceptible to catfacing than smaller tomatoes.
Hard spots- Hard, white spots that develop just under the skin of tomato fruits are caused by plants in stress. Too much water, too little water, and high daytime temperatures (in excess of 90?F) can all be contributing factors. Tomato plants cease to produce red pigment during periods of extreme high temps, causing tomato flesh to develop with a colorless cast to it.
Again, minimizing stress to the plant by mulching, and watering regularly can go a long water to preventing hard spots from developing in your tomatoes. When ultra-high temperatures are predicted, shade cloth, or screening, properly placed can ease the heat during the hottest time of the day.
(7/18/02)
Weeds In Tight Places
When weeds are inundating your flowerbeds, or grasses are popping up in your ivy, spraying herbicides just isn't an option. Whatever will kill the weeds will surely kill your desirable plants. However, you can try the "wick application" method to spot treat weeds in amongst your flowers.
Procure a pair of tight fitting rubber gloves. If you are right-handed, put a thick cotton glove over the rubber glove on your right hand. Stick the cotton gloved hand in a bucket of an all-purpose herbicide like Round-up, squeezing the glove slightly to remove excess liquid. You don't want all sorts of drips when you get close to your flower beds, so proceed with a steady hand. Grasp the weed at the base and slide it through the glove, up to its top. This will coat the weed with herbicide and your flowers will emerge unscathed!
(7/17/02)
Organic Pest Controls
If you are battling recurring waves of insects but don't care to use chemical controls, try the following: a good stiff spray of water from your garden hose directed particularly at stems and the undersides of leaves can throw bugs for a loop. Scout your plants daily, or as often as possible, and if populations start to build, go for your nozzle!
Insecticidal soap sprays are quite effective in killing many insects. The soapy spray must contact the body of the pest, and once dry, have no effect whatsoever. Homemade concoctions aren't recommended, because dish soaps are formulated for cleaning dishes and can damage tender plant tissues, especially when temperatures are high. Use commercial soap formulations such as Safers, and target insects directly.
Bt's are naturally occurring bacterial diseases of insects. There are different strains that plague different bugs. Bts target many caterpillars, mosquitoes, black flies, fungus gnats, as well as larval Colorado potato beetles. The best part is that the affect only the target insect, and is safe to use around birds, pets, and kids. Make sure to find the Bt strain that works for the pest you are battling.
(7/16/02)
Praying (Or Preying) Mantis In The Garden
Praying mantises or mantids are fascinating insects to watch. They are out and out predators with a voracious appetite for other insects. It really doesn't matter what it is; be it a plant-damaging aphid or mite, or a beneficial lace-wing or honey bee, the mantid doesn't discriminate. These predators hunt day and night, frequently positioning themselves by a porch light, to attack night flying critters.
Harmless to humans (except for a pinch if they feel threatened), mantids do strike fear in some with their unsettling appearance. Large compound eyes, the ability to cock their heads from side to side, and their spiny jointed forelegs all combine to make the mantid a superb hunter. When lying in ambush for prey, all mantises strike the same prayerful pose -- forelegs held close to the body, middle and back legs grasping the stem. Camouflage is provided by its brown or green stick-like body, and as an insect comes into reach the mantid strikes out with it spiny front legs, grasping and impaling its prey. The mantid is so fast that it can strike twice before a common housefly can even open its wings to fly away.
Each fall, females deposit eggs in a frothy, bubbly brown encasement around twigs and branches. The cases harden, giving the eggs winter protection. By clipping the twig, you can transport egg cases to a protected site in your garden. When they emerge in the spring they'll be incredibly hungry. They'll feed on the insects in your garden, and then they'll probably move on.
(7/15/02)
Recycle Old CD's
Do you have problems with birds flying into large windows or glass doors? Often, windows without curtains or blinds are hit by unsuspecting birds, causing them injury or death. Use CD's sent as advertisements in the mail, or old ones you no longer use, by hanging them from a thin wire just outside your window. They will swing and flutter in any breeze, reflecting light in all directions. The suspended CD's can also be used in trees to prevent sapsucker damage, to keep birds and other animals from absconding with ripening fruit, or just as a decorative ornament.
(7/14/02)
Growing Bananas
The continuing trend for the tropical look in home gardens finds many of us buying exotic plants for containers and beds. Large leafed banana plants (Musa) are a smashing addition texturally, and there are even colorful varieties for an extra spark. Bananas are easy to grow, but unless you live in Zone 9 or below, you will probably not see flowers or fruit produced. This is because bananas need 2 frost-free growing seasons (12 months of growth) to flower. If you have access to a heated greenhouse for the winter, you can successfully get bananas to flower, or try another popular method. Dig up the banana plant, roots, soil, and all. Put it in a container in a dark, dry part of your basement. The banana will go into a dormant state. Leave all the old leaves in place on the plant. Don't remove them!
After danger of all frost in spring, plant the banana in a large hole. Backfill, adding liberal amounts of compost, and mulch the area well. Fertilize monthly with 15-30-15 and keep the plants moist. Soil moisture is important in the first few months that the banana plant is in the ground. This is because the embryonic inflorescence is formed early on determining the number of bananas that will be produced.
During the growing season, cut offshoots close to the base of the mother plant at ground level. Vigorous offshoots that are a foot or more away from the main plant can be removed from the mother plant in fall, and potted up to spend the winter in a bright window in your home.
Dwarf bananas are easier to handle, and ornamental bananas are grown only for their foliage and are mostly dwarf in size. These ornamentals may, if handled properly, produce fruit, but full of large, hard seeds; definitely not good for eating.
(7/13/02)
Divide And Transplant Iris
July is a good month to renovate an old iris patch. Dig iris clumps and cut away the old, center rhizomes that are no longer producing leaves and flowers. Use a sharp knife, and have a 10% bleach-90% water solution handy to dip into in case of bacterial infection of certain rhizomes. Affected rhizomes will be mushy, and have a nasty smell. Throw these away and do not compost them.
Cut iris leaves off at about 6 inches high and replant the vigorous pieces about 8 inches apart. Keep your new plants watered during hot, dry spells.
(7/12/02)
Caring For Your Mums
Not implying that your mother needs attention, rather a few quick words on how to manage chrysanthemum plants for a wonderful fall performance. Lightly fertilize plants every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer. To keep plants fairly compact and reduce legginess, pinch out new tip growth regularly until mid-July. For extra-large flowers, allow only one or two shoots to develop per stem. Stake these chosen shoots and remove any side buds that begin to develop. You'll have fewer, but much larger flowers.
(7/11/02)
Is Your Mower Height Right?
Make sure your mower height is set right for the type of grass you are growing, as well as the conditions (sun or shade, moist or dry) in your yard. The summertime mower setting for tall fescue and bluegrass lawns is normally 2 1/2 to 3 inches. This higher setting will reduce weed infestations and improve rooting depth of the grass plants. Grass growing in shadier areas elongates more rapidly than in the full sun, so mow these areas at 3 inches.
(7/10/02)
Hummingbird Feeder Solution
To make up a sweet, tasty brew for your hummingbird visitors, use four parts water to one part white granulated sugar. Boil the water first, remove it from heat, and then add the sugar, stirring until it is totally dissolved. Allow the solution to cool before adding it to the feeder. Keep all unused solution in the refrigerator for up to a month.
If you have flowering plants that the birds regularly visit, position your feeder near them. Place it at a good height to view the birds, and also to maintain the feeder. The sweet, syrupy solution can be sure to attract ants, wasps, and bees. Petroleum jelly applied on and around the openings will make it difficult for the unwanted invaders to partake of the solution. NEVER use insecticides around the feeder to control pests. They can be very toxic to the birds
(7/9/02)
Ouch-The Battle Has Begun!
Summer is the time when we glory in outdoor life. It is also the time that our nemesis, the mosquito, has his extended fiesta. Besides all the sprays, coils, candles, and lotions we use, there are some simple steps you can take in your own yard to insure that they don't have a place to breed.
Any areas of standing water (old tires, buckets, plastic sheeting, pet dishes, etc.), must either be eliminated, or treated with a product containing Bt, a bacterial toxin that prevents the aquatic larvae from ever becoming biting adults. Bt comes in the form of donut-shaped grainy-cakes that are friendly to birds, fish, and the dog. Bird baths, fountains, ponds, outdoor planters -- anything that holds water should have a Bt "dunk," or a portion of one.
If you've done all this, but still have a mosquito problem, let your neighbors in on this little tidbit. Mosquitoes can travel a good distance to feast on your blood, so you can only do so much. That's where your coils, candles, and sprays come in handy. Repellents containing the active ingredient di-ethyl-toluamide (DEET) are very effective. Generally, the higher the percentage of DEET, the longer you will be protected. Be careful with products containing DEET and kids. Buy low percentage formulations made especially for them, and NEVER apply it to their hands!
(7/8/02)
Are Your White Roses Looking Brown?
A glorious flower -- the rose. I love them all, particularly the pastel colors, and white roses. These pale colored roses have a tendency to attract tiny insects called thrips. The little reddish-brown pests burrow deeply within the petals of rose buds and cause your white roses to have brown-edged petals, or sometimes not to open at all. They are just barely visible, and if you're unsure of their presence, tap a flower over a piece of white paper. The tiny specks will move around at a clip. My roses are plagued with them every year.
The fact that thrips live inside the flower makes them difficult to control. Products such as Orthene, Sevin, Malathion, and synthetic pyrethroids such as Tempo, Talstar, and Scimitar can be used when thrips are discovered. Thorough coverage is a must. Please follow all label directions. If temperatures are high, chemicals can cause damage to leaves and flowers.
(7/7/02)
Controlling Black Spot On Roses
To control black spot, choose disease resistant varieties of roses-there are new ones being introduced every year, as well as old varieties (Rugosa, is a resistant species). Plant your roses in an area where there is good air circulation, and where sun will hit them early in the morning (contributing to leaf dryness). Avoid overhead watering- oscillating sprinklers, and hand-held hoses should be avoided. Cleanliness around the plant is a must. Diseased leaves should be removed during the growing season, and rake and destroy all leaves after they drop in the fall. The black spot fungus overwinters in old leaf debris. Don't add them to your compost pile, just get rid of them.
On susceptible roses already in your garden, regular applications of fungicide are necessary (another reason people don't grow roses). When your rose begins to put on new growth, begin application. Spray before rainy spells if possible (depend on your local meteorologist!) and continue on a weekly basis throughout the growing season. Suggested fungicides include products containing one of the following: captan, chlorothalonil, fenarimol, ferbam, folpet, mancozeb, maneb, propiconazole, ziram, or mancozeb + thiophanate-methyl.
(7/6/02)
What Is Black Spot? Does Your Rose Have It?
Black spot is the reason that many gardeners won't even mess with roses. As the name suggests, this fungal disease is characterized by dark, circular spots on the upper surface of the leaf. These spots will grow until the leaf turns yellow, and falls off. Generally, black spot infections occur from mid-May through early August, and are most severe in wet seasons. A wet leaf surface encourages the disease to spread. Even though roses can survive this leaf disease, the plants look nasty, and are weakened over time.
(7/5/02)
More Peony Tips
Other possible reasons for lack of bloom include weather patterns and fertilization. Peony flower buds are initiated in late summer as day length decreases. Drought conditions at this time of the year can interfere with bud set, causing the plants to have decreased, or no amount of bloom. Over fertilization -- use of high nitrogen products in and around the bed, can deter peonies from flowering. The best time to apply fertilizer is late fall. Use a 6-12-12 or 8-8-8 formulation, and side-dress 4-6 inches away from the crown. Repeat the side-dressing in spring when new growth emerges.
If flower buds appear but never develop, the cause could be disease or insect related. Fungal diseases are controlled by fungicide applications when new shoots emerge, repeated twice in 10-day intervals after the initial application. Thrips will cause partially opened buds to brown and fall off. Summer horticultural oil can be used as buds are forming to control thrips.
Always remove dead, dying, or diseased foliage during the growing season. In the fall, cut spent foliage to the ground, and remove it, insuring that disease pathogens will not overwinter within it.
(7/4/02)
Peonies Not Blooming?
If you have divided and moved peonies in recent years, and they aren't blooming, there are several things to consider. Peonies grow best in full sun, but will tolerate light shade (4-6 hours of sun). Where shade is too deep, or in heavy competition from nearby tree roots, peonies will produce few blooms.
Preferred soil is well drained, with a pH of 6.8 to 7.2. The key here is WELL DRAINED, as peony roots will rot in heavy soil, or locations where water sits. When dividing or moving an existing clump (the best time is in late August through October), divisions should have 3-5 eyes (buds or growing points) per crown on each clump or peonies will not be able to bloom. The crown should be planted no deeper than 2 inches below the soil surface, or blooming will be impaired.
(7/3/02)
Organic Fertilizers
Many gardeners are trying to avoid the use of chemicals in their landscape-I'm one of those. For the longest time, fresh animal manures seemed to be the only source of organic fertilizers. Hard to find, transport, and if you live on a small lot, your neighbors develop a dislike for you and your stinky garden. Fresh manure also introduces weed seeds into your garden, which is a pain in itself.
Luckily, there are more products on the market today, making it easier for a gardener to be organic. Garden supply catalogs and local nurseries are a good source of available products. Here is a little info on some of the products currently available.
Bone fertilizer- Comes in several forms such as steamed bone meal. Animal bones have been steamed under pressure to soften them, and then ground into a meal. This meal usually contains 15-30% phosphorous, 1% nitrogen, and around 20% calcium. Raw bone meal (hard to find) has a slightly higher nutrient content.
Blood meal- Blood obtained from slaughterhouses, is dried, and then ground. It must contain no less than 12% nitrogen. It also supplies 2% phosphorus and 1%potassium. The nitrogen in blood meal is immediately available to plants-a good quick fix!
Guano- Guano is a general term for partially decomposed bird, bat, and seal excrement. Many products unless otherwise labeled, contain a mixture of these droppings, containing up to 12% nitrogen, 11% phosphorus, 2% potassium, and 8% calcium.
Cottonseed meal- After cottonseed oil is extracted, cottonseed meal is what's left. The nutrient content averages about 6% nitrogen, 2% phosphorus, and 1% potassium.
Greensand- Greensand is basically hydrated silicate of iron and potash, the potash, however being insoluble in water. There are also trace minerals such as magnesium, manganese, and boron. Not a reliable source of fertilizer.
Fish meal- Made from the processed inedible parts of fish. The material is cooked or treated with acid, and then dried. It has about 10% nitrogen content and 6% phosphorus.
(7/2/02)
Are your azaleas looking funny?
If you've noticed that your azaleas are losing their dark-green color, take a closer look. Leaves that appear speckled on the upper surface, and dotted with rusty-brown, or blackish specks on the underside, are under attack from the azalea lace bug. Heavy feeding can render leaves almost white, giving the plant a bleached appearance. (On evergreen azaleas and rhododendron, the feeding can look brown or gray). In most areas, feeding damage begins to appear in May. Though the azalea lace bug rarely kills a plant on its own, heavy infestations can greatly reduce plant vigor, and make plants look sickly.
The azalea lace bug adult is about ? inch long with lacy wings, marked with black and light brown. The nymphs are colorless, turning black just before developing into adults. Eggs are laid along the veins of the leaves and hatch in about 3 weeks. The entire life cycle takes between 35-45 days. Several generations will occur through September, so keep your azaleas monitored throughout the growing season.
Direct initial insecticide applications to the undersides of the leaves in early May. Once insects are spotted, repeat applications of insecticidal soap, summer-grade horticultural oil, Dursban, Orthene, or malathion to the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves to take care of late-hatching nymphs or infestations from nearby plants. Read labels carefully, and do not apply chemicals when temperatures are 85?F or above, as they can cause injury to leaves.
Keep your azaleas in good vigor by providing adequate moisture in summer, pruning out dead, damaged, or diseased stems and foliage, and fertilizing in late fall (after dormancy).
(7/1/02)
Weird things are growing in my mulch
Have you ever discovered strangely colored growths developing in your mulched beds? Like the bizarre dog-vomit fungus that makes large colonies of orange/yellow fungal growth. Another weird one is the artillery fungus that shoots tiny black spores onto surrounding surfaces (decks, buildings, cars, etc.). These strange fungal occurrences are generally only a nuisance, and not harmful to the plants growing near them. They tend to be short-lived, and usually complete their life-cycles within the time frame of a few weeks.
To avoid the development of these creepy fungal growths in your yard and landscape, here are a few helpful hints.
Use mulch that has been thoroughly broken down or composted. To determine this, pile mulch up in a shady area for a few days. If bagged, dump it out into a pile and let it sit. Check the mulch pile daily by putting your hand into the middle of the mound. If it feels hot, than it is not totally composted or aged, and needs to sit longer. It is usable, when cool to the touch.
Fungi prefer to colonize decaying wood, so use mulch that is high in bark content, and low in wood chunks. Pine bark mulches are an excellent choice.
Keep mulch levels at about 2 inches deep for good air penetration.
If your mulch has a sour smell, follow steps given in #1 above. When odor has disappeared, mulch is usable.
Keep the mulch moist, to promote the development of beneficial bacteria and fungi. These will out-compete nuisance fungi for nutrients, and deter their weird and colorful growth.

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